Reading the Tea Leaves

A recent visit to a new Dim Sum restaurant in Alhambra, CA was an eye-opener:  its sister restaurant happens to be Harbour Seafood (in Rosemead), a place known for its high-end seafood, and the Dim Sum menu did not disappoint.  New and innovative creations (white scallops resting atop rounds of tender beancurd, little shrimp dumplings accompanied by a small bowl of superior broth…) were tempting, visually and to the palate.  More often than not, popular Dim Sum restaurants are happily raucous, cavernous places, with servers and their steaming carts threading their way around packed tables.  The first question from the waiter as you settle into your chairs is apt to be about your choice of tea.

Dim Sum morsel of pea shoots, scallops, shrimp

Rarely is a tea menu offered.* It is assumed that diners will know which teas are available.  It is noteworthy that Black teas are hardly ever on offer, even though some Cantonese restaurants use Lichee Black as their standard house tea, although this is rarely served as a Dim Sum tea.

Jasmine is always a safe choice, familiar and predictable.  Not too adventurous, but nothing wrong with that selection.  At least you will be given a pot of tea made with loose tea rather than with a teabag.  (A few Dim Sum places may offer Silver Jasmine Pearls, but that will add a substantial premium to your tab.)  The grade of Jasmine is not likely to of high quality but the Jasmine bouquet will be familiar.  I know of one well established Dim Sum house in San Francisco that uses a Swallow’s Tongue Jasmine; I hope their customers appreciate what they are getting.

The same might be said of an Oolong — not too much will go wrong with this option.  A familiar Chinese restaurant standby, the Oolong at a Dim Sum establishment is likely to be a Shui Hsien (Water Spirit), a hearty, robust tea from northern Fujian.  It will not be a Rock tea, but it should be of higher quality than the usual pot placed at your table in Chinese restaurants all over this country.  Shui Hsien has long thick leaves as it is a large leafed tea, and good quality Shui Hsien has an inviting, high aroma, with a vibrant, winey character.

Shui Hsien Oolong

Green tea seldom appears as part of the (usually unspoken) tea selection. Green tea is unlikely to be the first or most popular choice among Cantonese, and Dim Sum is, after all, a Cantonese traditon.  If Dragonwell (Lung Ching) is offered, by all means try that.  It will not be a high premium grade but even a middle grade Dragonwell would do nicely and can stand up to the food.  I would not recommend a Green if it is a Chunmee (“Eyebrow” tea, named for the shape of the leaves).  The higher grades have uniform, well-formed leaves and are softer tasting, but the grade offered here is likely to be a middling to lower grade, and the cup can be on the smoky side.

Shou Mei White

Instead, take this opportunity to try a White tea; Shou Mei (sometimes Sow Mee) is the standard White available at Dim Sum restaurants.  Light orange in the first infusion, the color will deepen as the tea steeps.  Easy to drink with a slight nutty note, this is a friendly, accessible tea to accompany the many little dishes that will grow quickly on your table.  Shou Mei may remind you of a more delicate, lighter version of Black tea, and is thought to be gentle on the digestive system.

If you look around at other tables and could peer into their teapots, you will find many pots of Puer.  A favorite at restaurants because many believe this tea reduces the greasy, full feeling that follows a meal, Puer is known for its earthy taste — for many, definitely an acquired taste.**Deep in color, the tea is, or ought to be, smooth without any rough or raw edge in the finish.  The Puer Dim Sum restaurants buy falls into a couple of standard grades; the leaves are long and spidery, yie

Puer aged tea

lding a full-bodied cup.  And the tea has the staying power to last through several infusions nicely.

A specialty of Dim Sum places is Puer combined with dried chrysanthemum blossoms. I prefer this to the straight Puer.  The chrysanthemum flowers add a natural sweetness and round out the funky flavor of the aged tea.  You will see petals and blossoms floating in the pot.

Dried chrysanthemum (from Hangzhou)

Better yet, ask for chrysanthemum straight.  Strictly speaking this is not a true tea, but this herbal beverage makes a fine accompaniment to Dim Sum or any other meal.  If the blossoms are “fresh,” i.e., dried recently and stored properly, you will see a clear, light green brew, delightful in its natural fragrance and flavor.  The best chrysanthemum flowers are identified with the city of Hangzhou in Zhejiang (a great tea province), and the flowers are much smaller (nickel sized) than the mums we are accustomed to seeing.  (In the summer months, ask if the restaurant serves iced chrysanthemum; sweetened with rock sugar, it is a refreshing summer cooler.)

Finally, if you are a party of four or more, there is no reason why you can’t order and enjoy two different teas with your meal.  To take dim sum in Cantonese is, literally, to drink tea (yum cha).

In traditional teahouses the highlights of the morning dim sum experience for many retirees are the tea and socializing; the food was secondary.  So even as you try not to miss any of the plates passing by your table and to chat over the banter around you, take time to savor the tea at hand.  And when you are ready for a refill, lift the lid from the teapot, rest it slightly off to the side, and alert wait-staff will know to add more water.

*A number of Chinese “fine dining” establishments have taken a lead in offering a true tea menu, with descriptions that vary in accuracy.  The teas may be rolled in on a fancy cart.  Sometimes the teas are displayed in glass jars.  Service may be standard or imbued with some ceremony; either way, the bill is likely to take a hit.

**Here Puer is the “cooked” variety.  (See my post on “The Raw and the Cooked.”)

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