Reading the Tea Leaves

It’s one of things you either seek out or try to avoid, like durian.

Lapsang Souchong Black is a tea much sought after by those who can’t get enough of its “tarry” smoke taste or assiduously avoided by people who can’t abide the smoky smell, much less the thought of actually drinking this smoky brew.

Its proper name is Zhen Shan Xiao Zhung.  Xiao Zhung means a sub-variety, a reference to a group of teas from the WuYi Mountains in northern Fujian.

Souchong is the pronounciation of Xiao Zhung in the dialect of the area.

Zhen Shan marks an authentic or genuine mountain tea from the WuYi region in northern Fujian.

Not a hint about smoke.

The story of Lapsang Souchong is a lovely one, and there can be no better setting than the verdant hills in WuYi, now a UNESCO protected reserve.

Approaching the Lapsang Souchong production site in northern Fujian.

A meandering one lane road, with a small stream flowing alongside, took us deep into the bamboo-filled and forested heart of this natural reserve.  When we came upon a car traveling in the opposite direction (only twice during a two hour ride), one or the other driver had to pull over on the shoulder to allow the other vehicle to pass.

This region played a prominent part in Fujian’s tea history, especially with respect to Black teas.  Today this rich body of lore and fact resides in dark, hulking, barn-like structures, quite nondescript and not attention worthy unless one is seeking out the secrets of Lapsang Souchong production.

Embellished over the years, one version passed down goes something like this: due to internecine conflict inland and an embargo along the Fujian coastline, teas destined for export could not be shipped out and risked spoilage.  Someone had the idea to smoke the leaves, and a new tea was born.  It proved a success in Europe and continues to be popular there today, even though Lapsang Souchong is not in high demand within China now.

1st Grade Lapsang Souchong

But the story does not end there: the Lapsang Souchong we see in the West is a bold, strongly flavored tea, with pronounced smokiness.  The leaves are robust, thick, and almost glossy, making a full-bodied cup.  Yet when visiting the tea processing site, we as guests were treated to a bright orange-amber brew that was much lighter in body, and more importantly, the smoky factor was subtle, not by any means overpowering or overwhelming.  On the contrary, as one who was not partial to the standard Lapsang Souchong, I found the tea charming in its gentle, sweet hint of smoke.  This was a winsome tea that none in our group had encountered before.

"Original" Lapsang Souchong; note smaller leaves

This is how we came upon the “original” Lapsang Souchong, a tea that finds its way to the export market only in small quantity.  (The standard Lapsang Souchong is produced and exported in vast quantities.)  The Original Lapsang Souchong has finer leaves and is costlier, since the production is limited each season.

But to return to the tea itself: the large, dark, four-storied buildings we passed are the smoking facilities for the tea.

Our first view of the smoke house.

Here is another view of this pocket of production:

A 1st look inside the "smoke house."

We were treated to lunch at the facility: fresh produce, simply prepared – good, hearty, homestyle fare.

Plentiful, unfussy dishes (very local) -- a memorable meal in an unforgettable setting.

After Black tea is prepared (after rolling, full oxidation, drying, etc.), it is spread on a lattice-like floor that extends the full length and width of the building.

Smoke from lower floors rise through the openings.

Windows and small fans provide air circulation.  In the basement low burning pine-wood creates smoke that wafts upward, allowing the Black tea leaves to absorb this natural fragrance.

The lattice-work floors look a bit precarious but are surprisingly sturdy.  As I held a hand against a wall to steady my steps, my fingers came away smudged with the accumulation of years of smoke.

No shiny new equipment here:

Well-worn but time-tested methods.

Here is one product from this processing site:

The setting of these “smoking houses” is serene and peaceful, a place from which we were reluctant to part.  The impression one takes away is an image of deep greens and running streams.  Little wonder then that families who tend the tea gardens in the area, having been there for generations, opt to remain in this remote spot.

The relative isolation of the tea “factory” makes it a wonderful discovery for visitors, and the adage about the journey and destination is very apt here.  But for tea people like us, the discovery about the genuine Lapsang Souchong is a true highlight, one to marvel over and savor.  The tea invites and deserves at least a moment’s pondering about the history of this area, the role that tea has played in its development, and the curious turns in history, with at least one felicitous outcome for tea.